Pattern for garments



(Nuo Model.) I

C. S. PUSEY.

PATTERN FOB. GARMENTS. l

No. 847,888. Patented Aug.A 24, 1888.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CAROLINE S. PUSEY, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

PATTERN FOR GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 347,888, dated August24, 1886.

Application filed February 4, 1856. Serial No. 190.758.

To all whom it may concern..-

Be it known that I, CAROLINE S. PUsEY, a citizen of the United States,residing in the city and county of Philadelphia, and State ofPennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inPatterns forGarment-s, of which the following is a full, clear, and eX-act description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings.

The object of this invention is to facilitate the cuttingout ofstuffsfor garnichts from paper patterns.

The invention consists in the combination, with the patterns, ofdiagpfpnsmepresenting, on a reduced scale, tlitmngth and breadth ofthematerial of which the garment is to be cut, with the several patternslaid down thereon in suitable predetermined positions, directions, andrelations, whereby the material may be Cutout from the full-sizepatterns in accordance with the disposition of the said patterns as laiddown on the diagrams.

The ordinary patterns for garments, which, as is well known, arel anextensive article of manufacture and sale, are usually made up of anumber of separate pieces of paper of suitable form, and sometimes theseveral parts of a pattern are printed in outline, in broken linescrossing cach other, on a single'sheet of paper, from which tracings areto be made wil h what is known as a tracing77 or copying7 wheel. N 0W,it requires considerable time and the exercise of judgment in order tolay down these patterns on the material so that they will, in the firstplace, when cut out, use

the material economically, and, secondly, so

as to avoid mistakes in laying the pieces, or certain of them, in theproper position and direction, suoli as the nature of the material shallrequire, whether owing to the latter being figured or presentingdifferent appearances when viewed from different directions. It isnecessary, in practice, for the manufac-` turers of these patterns,instating (as is usually done) the number of yards required for theseveral widths of material, to allow a liberal margin for lackofjudgment and forethought, and for the possible, if not probable,mistakes of those who may use the patterns in cutting out thematerialfor the garment to be made. It is, indeed, not an unusualoccurrence,when mistakes are madein laying down the patterns,

(No model.)

for the necessity to arise ofprocuringa further quantity of stuff thanwas stated to be, or thought to be, suflieient in the first place. Bymeans of my invention these objections are obviated, and the purchaserof a particular pattern is thereby enabled to know precisely the exactquantity of material required for making up the particular garment.

In Figure l of the annexed drawings, a b c, Ste., represent the severalparts or pieces of a basque and skirt pattern, which I have selected atrandom to illustrate myinvention. Figs. 2 and 3 represent these parts asprinted or laid down in suitable positions with relation to each otherand the length and width of the material, and with the greatest economyot' space, in diagrams upon a reduced scale upon a card or sheets ofpaper.

In carrying ont my'invenlion in an expeditious manner I measure off aspace upon the floor or along table,the width ot'\vl1ichspaceis equal tothat ofone of the usual widths in which dress material is iliadesaythirty-six inches. I next arrange upon the said space, beginning at oneend. thereof, the several pattern-pieces a b c, Ste., in properposition, bearing inmind also the directions in which the pieces shouldrun when the pattern is cut ont from the material, and when all saidpattern-pieces have been arranged properly and to the best advantage andeconomy, I then make a small diagram-such as Y, Fig` 2--representing thematerial and the patterns so arranged. The length of the materialrequired for this width (thirtysix inches) is four yards, or four timesthe width. -I then proceed and measure out another width Aupon theoor-say fifty-four inches, Fig. 3-or the half of the same, Z, Fig. 2, inlike manner, and proceed in a similar way, and so on, as may bedesirable, as to other widths.

Fig. 8 is substantially the same as Z, Fig. 2, except that in the lattercase only one of each of the duplicate patterns is used, the ma- -terialbeing supposed to be doubled over lengthwise.

As is well understood by those familiar with the art to which myinvention appertains, the back width, a, of the skirt and the frontwidth, b, thereof are not out on the line of folding of the materialwhen doubled over, nor ae they cut out when not doubled over-that IOO isto say, these two pieces, in the latter case, are not cut onthe dottedline t t, Figs. 2, Y, and 3, but are cut double the width ofthe onepattern-piece. I finally print the diagram or diagrams on a card, J,Fig. 2, as shown,adapted to accompany the particular pattern and to beused as a reference in connection therewith; or I sometimes print saiddiagrams uponv one of the patternpieces. 'Ihe length of the materialrequired for the iifty-four-inch width, Fig. 3, and Z, Fig. 2, is twoand seven-eighths yards.

It will be observed that the arrangement of the patterns of Y differsconsiderably from those of Z. Such difference of arrangement isnecessary for the foregoing various stated widths,in order to secure theshortest possible length of the material for those widths, and

Y for other widths, which I have not deemed it necessary to illustrate,in like manner. In this way a person having the diagrams before her orhim is enabled to learn at once exactly how much stuff is required formaking up the garment, and how the patterns are to be laid thereonwithout any reasonable danger of any but inexcusable mistakes. Also, byusing my invention the pattern and the required amount of stu` may besupplied to the dress-maker or tailor, and thus avoid a not infrequentoccurrencethat is, the dress-maker, being unable or unwilling to takethe time to properly' arrange the patterns to the best advantage, usesconsiderably more material than the pattern really requires.

By the use of my device one can purchase the separate pieces withaccompanying diagrams, and the precise number of yards of the materialknown to be requisite, and supply the same to the dressmaker, with theknowledge that the latter cannot properly require a greater or furtherquantity of material in order to make up the particular garment.

y It will of course be understood that in the annexed drawings thepattern-piecesa b c, &c., Fig. 1, although substantially correct las toshape and relative proportions, are greatly smaller in dimensionsproportionally to those laid down in the diagrams, Figs. 2 and 3, thanthe full-size patterns. The several pieces in said diagrams are drawnsubstantially to a scale, as also, of course, the rectanglesrepresenting the length and width of the material, although, it may beobserved, it is not essential that the diagrams should be strictly to ascale, the purpose being to serve as a substantially-correet index, soto say, to direct how the pattern-pieces are to be laid, `the number ofyards in length of the particular width being of course stated on thepatterns or the accompanying diagrams.

Having thus described my invention. Iclaim as new and useful and vdesireto secure by Let ters Patent- A compound pattern for cutting outgarments, consisting of the full-size pattern-pieces necessary to cutout a garment and a second sheet having a diagram thereuponshowing theproper positions to be occupied by the said pieces upon the length offabric to be cut, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto afixed my signature this 3d day ofFebruary,` A. D. 1886.

CAROLINE s.- rUsEY.

Witnesses:

GRACE E. PUsEY, W. W. DOUGHERTY.

